Destination: Songnimsa (Daegu vicinity, Gyeongsangbuk-do)
AUTHOR’S note: this post is rated PG-13 – put the kids away and keep scrolling if you’re squeamish =)
Yes, I enjoy Buddhist temples, although I’ve found a lot of them look quite similar in many ways. No, I don’t have an intimate scholarly knowledge of the religion, so a lot of the symbolism is admittedly lost. While the temple has had an excellent write-up over at Dale’s Korean Temple Adventures, it lacks a Wikipedia page and has no real mention on Visit Korea – a bit surprising, personally.
Rewind the time machine to over a millennium ago, when King Jinheung and Supreme Master Myeonggwan brought 2,700 volumes of Buddhist scriptures and the sariras of the Buddha himself. This temple was founded in 544 A.D. to house the sariras, and renovated in 1092 A.D. Like virtually every other temple in Korea, it’s followed a pattern of being destroyed, rebuilt, and renovated again. While little survives from a millennium ago, a five-story brick pagoda (Treasure #189) remains:
As we went during the Buddha’s birthday celebrations, there were plenty of lanterns being placed – thankfully, the metal support aren’t there the rest of the year.
What makes the temple different is perhaps the best decorated Judgement Hall in Korea – (명부전, or Myeongbu-jeon), complete with some rather graphic ways hell is portrayed. Within the hall (but not pictured here) are the 10 Underworld Kings, although I agree with Dale that these are some of the best paintings to be found at a Korean temple.
These pictures make up the outer wall, so you can see them as you might visit a museum. Personally, I love how huge the judge is compared to the mortals he’s judging.
Spikes and fire, anyone?
Goodness gracious, blue snakes and fire! Oh, and the pit, too.
Another example where the guards are over twice the size of the mere mortals. The punishment hasn’t yet happened for the one on his knees, as a magic mirror (for want of a better term) reminds him of his sins.
As temples go, this one building makes it worth the trip, though it’s a pain to arrive. The rest of the temple offers plenty of gorgeous paintings, although it’s clear the reconstruction phase is still in full effect. The Bugok Hawaii’s displays are a bit more interesting, however.
Ratings (out of 5 taeguks - How do I rate destinations?):
Ease to arrive:
Foreigner-friendly:
Convenience facilities:
Worth the visit:
Address: Gyeongsangbuk-do Chilgok-gun Dongmyeong-myeon Gudeok-ni 91-6
Korean address: 경상북도 칠곡군 동명면 구덕리 91-6
Hours: not posted
Admission: free
Phone: 054-976-8116
Website: http://www.songnimsa.org/
Directions: From Dongdaegu station, walk out any of the exits and turn right. Walk towards the pedestrian overpass, then turn right BEFORE you cross the road. Walk to the bus stop and hop on bus 101-1. Note that your T-money or other traffic card should work on the Daegu buses. Ride the bus to Deokgok (덕곡), then transfer to Chilgok bus 3 (칠곡 3). There are several places to transfer buses, including Songjeong-dong (송정동) and Dangjeong-maeul (동정마을) – just make sure you transfer buses. Ride the bus to Songnimsa – note that it may be called Giseong-ri (기성리) on the bus stop. This is the stop on the main road – get off and follow the signs from there.
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Dale
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Londone7
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