Destination: Unjusa – where weird stone statues are more interesting than the temple’s buildings (Hwasun-gun, Jeollanam-do)
IF you’ve spent any time in Korea, you’ve seen a temple or three. I’ve lost track at this point, but this one remains memorable for a few reasons. On one level, it’s considered a ‘mysterious temple’ since the founder and date isn’t known. On another level, the temple holds a number of stone statues I doubt you’d see anywhere else. There’s nothing to describe them, possibly because there’s so little that’s really known about the place. This is despite four excavations and two academic studies done over the course of 7 years.
It’s believed that the temple once had a thousand stone pagodas and another thousand Buddha statues made from stone. This was supposedly called 천불천탑 (Cheon-bul Cheon-tap), and was documented in a 15th century geographical text. Although they’re a bit short of 1,000 of each, there are 91 stone Buddha statues and 21 stone pagodas remaining (including one of a unique design) still standing and on display today.
It is for these reasons that the legends abound. One legend has to do with the Korean belief of geomancy (not unlike feng shui), which believed the peninsula was unbalanced because the southwest area had fewer mountains than the southeast. A monk named Doseon then called down fairies / stone masons from heaven to build these pagodas and statues. Before they could be finished, however, the rooster crowed and the fairies / stone masons returned to the masons. The last two unfinished statues were left in a lying position, which are both huge (the smaller one is over 10 meters long), and presumably a little heavy.
Some of these stand (or in one case, lay) in a row just past the front gate. You’ll see them across a stream, and the bridge to get over is a little further on.
While there are no signs to go on, some are obviously older and others (like this one) are clearly newer.
This one’s a little harder to see, but picture a person holding his right wrist. While the age is impossible to know for certain, the later Goryeo Dynasty (13th or 14th century) is the era reflected by the style.
A bit older as well, is my guess.
Probably another older one, or they’re getting really good at making replicas.
When you’re ready to move on, take in the 구층석탑 (Gu-cheung Seok-tap, or the nine-storied pagoda):
Treasure #796, or the 9 story tower features plenty of engravings worth taking in. It’s a little unusual to have no fence or gate around the treasure, but the place is receiving some upgrades – it wouldn’t surprise me if a fence was part of the plan. More stone statues line the wall, contributing to one theory that the temple was a school for stonemasons.
Treasure #797 – the 운주사 석조 불감 (Un-jusa Seok-jo Bul-gam). You’re about halfway to the temple itself from the entrance at this point, and this unique statue features two Buddhas inside, sitting back-to-back with different poses.
Treasure #798 – the 원형 다층 석탑 (Won-hyeong Da-cheung Seok-tap). All the stones (except the base stone) are cylindrical in nature, and looks more like a stack of pancakes than something you’d see at a Buddhist temple.
And then you finally reach the temple itself. It’s notable in that it’s missing a couple of buildings you’d ordinarily see, including a Cheonwangmun (the building holding the four heavenly kings, perpetually posed with threatening looks). Instead, walk through a small building (with one of the Cheonwang painted on either door) to take in the main hall and a pagoda.
So many Buddhas, so little time.
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While not as impressive as the Judgement Hall in Songnimsa, the main hall did portray what might happen in the bad afterlife – getting your tongue ripped out or pulled out likely served as a good deterrent.
Something tells me this isn’t the sauna.
An exquisite temple bell – unusually, there’s no barrier and nothing preventing someone from ringing the bell (it’s really bad form, though, so refrain please!). Instead, fling a coin at the bell to make it sound and call it a donation.
But wait, there’s more! You basically walked in a straight line through a valley to reach the temple, so now it’s time to explore the mountain regions nearby:
Lest you think this is some kind of labyrinth, rest assured these are two sets of stairs that start from different places and end at the same place. It’s a lot of stairs, but the reward is this:
At over 10 meters long, this is the one of the two 와불 (wa-bul, or lying Buddha statues) that the aforementioned fairies / stone masons didn’t finish before the rooster crowed… The other one, on a nearby hill, is worthwhile, but seeing every statue and pagoda could easily take most of the day.
If you like odd temples, this is one of the more bizarre. Despite the unknowns and the remoteness, it’s worth it as a day trip from Gwangju or as part of a journey to a very rural area of the country.
Ratings (out of 5 taeguks - How do I rate destinations?):
Ease to arrive:
Foreigner-friendly:
Convenience facilities:
Worth the visit:
Name: Unjusa (운주사)
Address: Jeollanam-do Hwasun-gun Doam-myeon Daecho-ri 20
Korean address: 전라남도 화순군 도암면 대초리 20
Directions: Start by getting to Gwangju’s Express Bus Terminal (광주종합버스터미널 – note that it’s also called the Gwangcheon Terminal). If you’re taking a bus to Gwangju, you’ll probably arrive here. Exit via gate 3 and walk straight to the bus platform. If you’re taking a train to Gwangju, take the city’s only subway line to Nongseong station (농성역), then take exit 5 to street level. Walk 300 meters and look for the bus terminal on your left.
Either way, follow the arrows for bus 318 or 218 to the platform on the left and wait. Jump on bus 318 for Jung-jang (중장) or 218 (IMPORTANT: only take buses with 운주사 (Unjusa) sign for the 1 hour 30 minute ride). You may be in for a wait – the 218 comes every 45 minutes to an hour, while the 318 goes all the way to 중장 a handful of times daily (6:50am, 9:57, 1:32, 4:33, and 8:50pm, as of this post’s published date). Double-check with the bus driver before getting on to avoid getting stranded or stopping short!
Hours: 8am-6pm
Admission: 3,000 won
Phone: 061-374-0660
Website: http://www.unjusa.org (Korean only)
Recommended for you
Destination: Gwangju Kimchi Town (Gwangju, Jeollanam-do)
Gwangju Kimchi Town (광주김치타운) – possibly one of the weirdest places in Jeollanam-do – and on a road named after a food! Intended to house a kimchi museum and a working manufacturing plant, we saw no evidence the latter was operating. The place was such a ghost town we weren’t sure the place was open…>
Destination: Jeondeungsa – where naked women hold up temples (Ganghwa-do, Incheon)
Did I get your attention? Good – that’s one of the stories you wouldn’t ordinarily associate with a Buddhist temple. In this case, it’s true. We’ll get to that in short order, but let’s see what’s along the way. Start with a hike including a steep hill and some big steps. Just past the ticket…>
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