July 11: Woodinville, WA
Nearly 70 top Riesling producers from around the world began the bi-ennial Riesling Rendezvous at Chateau Ste. Michelle this evening with a gala walk-around tasting on a beautiful summer night. I am a huge fan of fine Riesling from nearly anywhere in the world, and the Riesling Rendezvous hosts, Ch. Ste Michelle and the Dr. Loosen estate of Germany, made sure that the quality of the wines on display was high. Riesling, dry or not so dry depending on style and origin, is my wine of choice when it comes to eating food from nearly all Asian cuisines, especially those where “spiciness” is a central feature. This year’s Riesling Rendezvous highlighted great wines from such stellar German producers as Egon Müller, Josef Leitz, Dr. Loosen and Dõnnhoff, Austrian greats Willi Bründlmayer, Fred Loimer and Domäne Wachau, Hugel, Ostertag and Trimbach from Alsace, Washington’s wonderful Ch. Ste Michelle/Dr Loosen Eroica, Efeste, Tsillan Cellars and Pacific Rim, and fine Rieslings from serious Canadian producers Cave Spring and Henry of Pelham (Ontario) and Mission Hill Family (British Columbia). All of these wines clearly illustrated the unique traits that define their regions and traditions, and the adaptability of Riesling to various cool climate zones
Many people who attended, and there were close to 700 according to Ch Ste Michelle spokesperson Lynda Eller, were delighted and surprised by the number of fine Rieslings, particularly dry styles, from places they were really not aware of for fine Riesling. Oregon, for example, was well represented by Chehalem , Brooks Wines and Holloran Vineyards. Even less familiar to many, and all the more surprising and enjoyable were Rieslings from New York and Michigan, strongholds of Germanic style wines in the eastern US. Dr Konstantin Frank, Anthony Road and Sheldrake Point from the Finger Lakes District of New York, and Chateau Grand Traverse, Black Star Farms and Left Foot Charley from Michigan’s Upper Peninsula all reflected the laser-like intensity, elegance and style that increasingly defines these fine Riesling growing regions. Naturally, the Riesling Rendezvous also showcased several of the top producers from Down Under, perhaps the area most familiar to Asian Riesling drinkers. Fine Aussie producers pouring their top wines included Frankland River Estate and Jim Barry, while New Zealand was strongly served by Villa Maria, Forrest and Framingham.
IMHO, Riesling drunk without food is almost a crime! Served alongside these wines was a wide array of wonderful dishes, ranging from dim-sum style dumplings to grilled shrimp along with heartier spiced chicken and lots of fresh vegetables with dipping sauces, all meant to whet the appetite for more Riesling and highlight its versatility at the table. This last aspect, I believe, is one of the key reasons that Americans are drinking more Riesling than ever, making it the fastest growing variety over the last few years, according to several beverage industry reports. Our multicultural heritage allows people to enjoy food from many different places, and many cuisines Americans formerly considered exotic and intense are no longer viewed as odd, or unfriendly to wine. Enter Riesling!
From remarks overheard at the Riesling Rendezvous, people also came away with a renewed respect for Riesling, as producers emphasized that Riesling is capable of aging as long as top red wines like Bordeaux, and becoming as complex while still maintaining fresh vitality. At the end of the evening, it was clear to many that Riesling “rocks and rules”!
