THE Marlborough Sounds is often the first part of New Zealand’s south island that tourists see on undertaking the ferry crossing from Wellington across the Cook Strait. And what an introduction – in good weather that is – with views over turquoise blue waters to secluded beaches on various islets and peninsulas dripping with lush vegetation.
Marlborough Sounds, New Zealand. Pic: AP.
This region also offers a host of active options if you are that way inclined – coastal walks, sea kayaking or dolphin spotting or swimming – or something more sedate such as wine tasting, scenic drives, shopping or gallery hopping. There’s really a little of something for everyone and it’s worth lingering a few days here.
A day in the Life
The Marlborough Sounds area is actually a region and you could base in either Picton or Nelson to explore it. Picton is where ferries arrive and depart so it’s a good place to stay and the closest point for visiting the Queen Charlotte Sound and to explore the beaches and highlights of the Marlborough Sounds. You could head out on a half day cruise, dolphin watching or sea kayaking trip, leaving enough time to enjoy some wine tasting in the afternoon, a wander around town and a chance to dine on the famed mussels of the area.
Nelson, to the west, is a more alternative centre featuring Victorian houses, a swathe of cafes and yoga centres. From Nelson you could head out to explore beautiful Abel Tasman National Park on foot or sea kayak or visit famed Kaiteriteri beach during the day, and enjoy the activity in town in the afternoon and evening.
Best of the rest
The Queen Charlotte Track can be walked or biked over one to four days depending on how much time you have. There are spectacular views to enjoy on the 71km route of varying coves and inlets, the Queen Charlotte and Kenepuru sounds and coastal forests. Another good track to undertake is the Abel Tasman Coast Track, a 3-5 day jaunt over 54.4km, closer to Nelson.
The Queen Charlotte Track can be walked or biked. Pic: AP.
Alternatively take the coast road ‘Queen Charlotte Drive’, a spectacular 40km winding route between Picton and Havelock, featuring a chain of craft places, wood carvers and pottery studios dotted along the route that you can stop off to visit. The route is a great land-based way to enjoy the Sounds with many views of picturesque bays and beaches but do take care and keep your eyes on the road. From Havelock you can access State Highway 6 and continue to Nelson.
Hidden Gems
The Marlborough Wine growing area is expansive and impressive. The cool, sunny climate here is perfect for growing grapes and produces over half of New Zealand’s wines, notably a classy Sauvignon Blanc. Pick up a free map and guide to the wineries, there are around 110 in the area, and set out to explore, taste and dine. If you don’t have your own wheels there are guided tour options. There are about 120 olive groves in this region also.
Accommodation
There are plenty of options for accommodation in this area. Those providing the best access to town centres are the hostels, hotels and motels in Picton and Nelson. However you can also arrange to stay water-side in more remote areas on the peninsulas and islands of the Sounds, in bush or rural retreats, on the vineyards themselves or in the national parks. Hostels start at about $20-25 per night and prices rise from there. Bed and breakfast style vineyard accommodation prices vary anything from $50 through to several hundred. If you plan to stay in any of the Department of Conservation huts while undergoing one of the coastal walks, you will need to book via their website. Camping costs from $8-12 depending on the season and huts $17-35. It is advisable to book your accommodation in this region well in advance.
Marlborough Sounds, New Zealand. Pic: Jo Lane.
Dining
Choices for dining are limitless in this region. Both Picton and Nelson offer a variety of places to eat in pubs, galleries and cafes. While in Havelock, its famous mussels and incredible waterfront dining are a real feature. Those that venture out to the winery restaurants can enjoy some of the best wine lists in the world and plenty of fine dining. Some of the vineyards also organize cooking classes.
Nightlife
Nelson probably offers the best choices for nightlife with various Buddhist centres, naturopaths, yoga studios, galleries and bookshops featuring various courses, poetry readings and interesting alternative clientele.
Retail Therapy
Shopping in Nelson has a real European flavour, possibly thanks to its Victorian architecture but also its homely bakeries, boutiques featuring locally designed clothing or jewellery, the art galleries and local hardware store. There is also a weekend market on Saturdays and Sundays. Picton also has an assortment of souvenir stores, handicrafts such as Maori greenstone carvings and ceramics and various pharmacies and food stores.
Marlborough Sound, New Zealand. Pic: Jo Lane.
Transport
Getting there & away – There are a number of ways to arrive in the Marlborough Sounds region. Sounds Air flights connect Wellington with Picton, Blenheim, Nelson and Kaikoura. On Air New Zealand you can fly from Auckland, Christchurch or Wellington to Nelson or Blenheim. One of the most dramatic ways to get here however is by the Interisland Cook Strait ferries from Wellington. Buses also connect this area with much of the South Island. InterCity is the major operator.
Getting around – You will want to utilize some local water transport to take in the Sounds or try your hand at sea kayaking or other water-based activities and there are plenty of local operators offering options to do so in Nelson or Picton. Cars are also available for hire or you can arrange pickup/drop off services to the walks in the region both by land and sea.
