Eminent wine critic Peter Scudamore-Smith finds out why the wineries of Western Australia continue to surpass expectations and identifies 10 of the best family wineries in the state
The super-premium wines of Western Australia are widely recognised as punching well above their weight. This State has a small vineyard area in relation to the total Australian vineyard of about 150,000 hectares.
That statistic is further defined by an assertion that WA, and mainly Margaret River, supply 20 percent of all Australian super-premium wine (above USD 50) into the world market. And the growth of super-premium WA wine is on the rise despite the passing GFC, as the wine quality continues to go higher with time.
And that is an outstanding achievement but it also reflects the maturity plateau where so many vineyards now have vines of 30-40 years-of-age which reflects generally in many top line cabernet and shiraz. And also in chardonnay and the way this prized grape matures stepwise during its first 2-5 years after harvest.
Most WA wineries are family-owned while the dominant player is the US-based Constellation Wines ownership of Houghton, by far the biggest player. Most publically-owned WA properties have struggled pre and post the GFC with many heavily-discounted assets now falling back into private family hands (such as Palandri, Evans & Tate, Australian Wine Holdings, Great Southern and Omrah Vineyard).
WA vineyards had to weather a very tough vintage in 2006 from incessant wet weather during the red grape harvest. Many brands ditched their wines into the bulk market rather than release second-tier wine at questionable super-premium prices.
That became sensible judgement for brand owners after they were immediately blessed with the sun-ripe 2007 vintage which was outstanding (James Halliday Australian Wine Companion 2011 rates Margaret River 8/10 red and white quality for this year).
Examples of the vintage are the great wine by Cullen, Kevin John Chardonnay in taking out the Australian Chardonnay trophy at the Decanter World Wine Awards 2010 (over 10,000 entries) just pipping another Margaret River chardonnay from Voyager Estate, 2007.
Then there was a greater achievement by Fraser Gallop Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 taking the Bordeaux blend trophy for wines above USD 18 at the Decanter WWA 2009, being in the elite position of just two percent of all the 10,000 entries with a gold medal.
A further endorsement of Margaret River greatness came with the 2008 Jimmy Watson trophy from Melbourne wine show for best one-year-old red. Out of 700 Australian entries it went to the newly-established Flametree winery for its Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, which had just been bottled.
Another indicator is the rise in stature of Margaret River’s leading cabernet from Moss Wood-the 2007 absolutely profound in its aroma ripeness-just so gorgeous in the spice, red fruits, black fruits spectrum devoid of leafiness (the latter being a thumb print for incomplete ripeness at harvest).
Moss Wood had suffered some market scowls when releasing the 2006 wine for USD 67 to later sell on the secondary market as low as USD 49 for a brand which usually appreciates after release (2002-2005 now average USD 94). The exemplary 2007 has been released at USD 85.
Then the 2008 harvest was an even more glamorous vintage(Halliday ratings 9/10 both red and white for Margaret River wines) with the southern regions of WA just blasting away the east coast reds which suffered from heat damage and a general quality decline due to the hot conditions. WA had the opposite-mild, sunny and dry.
And just to show that good vintage weather is no fluke, a slightly early 2009 harvest is also rated 9/10 for both Margaret River red and white (Halliday 2011).
To demonstrate just how good this vintage is, and that not only Leeuwin Estate is a chardonnay leader in WA and Australia (but not an exhibitor in Australian wine shows), Xanadu landed a recent top trophy.
The Xanadu Reserve Chardonnay 2009, quite recently bottled at the time, took all before. It won the trophy for Best Chardonnay at the International Chardonnay Challenge last May held in Hawkes Bay, New Zealand against five hundred other world chardonnays. Xanadu’s Rathbone group had not made a reserve chardonnay since purchasing the property, and this was the first, and no doubt a product in demand when released next year.
HOWARD PARK
Owned by the Burch family, and previously John Wade, this company has really hit high taste points with riesling, shiraz and cabernet sauvignon in recent years. Howard Park Abercrombie Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 takes pride of place as the spearhead wine blended from two regions of supply: Margaret River and Great Southern (wine is made in Denmark). Two outstanding reds come out of the Wilyabrup, Margaret River vineyard; Leston Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz, both 2008. And from the Porongorup vineyard Great Southern GI comes Scotsdale Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz, also both 2008. However another express piece of news is the great character of Howard Park Great Southern Riesling 2009, one of the most powerful and lemon backboned wines I have tasted in several years. Its flavour extra.
HAPPS WINES
Happs Wines is a strong family-influenced unit established in 1977, and their forebears have settlement history in WA dating from 1850. The original vineyard was sited in Dunsborough, while a second was established in 1994 (Three Hills Vineyard), 100 km sound in Karridale. This recent vineyard is planted to thirty grape varieties and is quite pioneering. They have 40 hectares total. Founder Erl Happ has a hololistic approach to both grape growing and wine production, and is an early promoter of Preservative Free wines (PF White and Red 09). From the Three Hills label at the cooler site, single vineyard single varietal red 2008s to impress are Malbec, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc, Nebbiolo and Sangiovese as well as 2008 whites Eva Marie (Semillon Sauvignon Blanc) and the Classic Three Hills Chardonnay.
XANADU WINES
Xanadu represents a WA investment by the Rathbone family from Victoria who purchased the delisted Xanadu Ltd in 2005. The property had b een established well before listing and is one of the original southern Margaret River vineyards in Boodjibup Road (planted 1977), 85 hectares mainly of chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon (the region’s stalwart varieties). Xanadu are leaders in making intellectual styles of sauvignon and semillon 2009 blended with oak, as well as the nettley style 2009 and due to the extensive semillon plantings, Semillon 2009. The property grows outstanding Reserve Chardonnay 2008 and Chardonnay 2008, as well as Viognier 2009, Shiraz 2008, Mourvedre 2008 and Limited Release Cabernet Sauvignon 2007.
CHERUBINO
The Larry Cherubino phenomen on is very new: the man, the accomplishment and the wines, all pure WA. Larry’s last corporate gig was Houghton Wines in WA five years ago and since then he has built up a sassy brand empire based on the outstanding fruit sources of Great Southern and Margaret River, assisted by three brilliant growing years, 2007, 2008 and 2009. He has been busy. Cherubino Wines is the new-look reinvented Wolf Blass stereotype; flying winemaking at its best, harvesting the cream in nine WA vineyards, use careful selection to make three ranges; Ad Hoc, The Yard and Cherubino. The latter is the pinnacle brand: look for Cherubino’s magnificent Porongorup Riesling 2009, Pemberton Sauvignon Blanc 2009, Margaret River Chardonnay 2009, Frankland River Shiraz 2008 or Margaret River Cabernet 2008. Wines which are from single vineyard origin come under The Yard label: there are eleven (five outstanding rieslings). Then there are the nine left field, modernist wines under the Ad Hoc.
VASSE FELIX
Vasse Felix has been under long term ownership by the Holmes a Court family after its establishment at Wilyabrup in 1967, now covering 195 hectares. That makes for very mature grape vines and so seriously good wines. The leading wines of the property Heytesbury are reserve level wines known very widely as regular trophy and elite tasting winners. Try the current oak-energised 2008 Chardonnay or the lovely fruit-layered Cabernet Sauvignon 2008. Aside from the pinnacle drops more essence of Margaret River is discovered in the standard Vasse Felix skilfully-oaked Semillon 2009, the artfully blended Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2009, Chardonnay 2008, Cabernet Merlot 2008 and Cabernet 2008, but never forget the Classic Dry White 2009, a very popular seller.
ALKOOMI
Alkoomi is found in a beautiful inland portion of the south-west WA corner, the Frankland region where the grass trees grow prolifically, and now well established vines. The property, reaching 102 hectares of grapes, was established in 1971 by Merv and Judy Lange who sold on to Sandy and Rod Hallett some time ago. Alkoomi has always been a leader in riesling, those lemon-meringue styles with poise and backbone; the Black Label 2009 is another outstanding example. The lead wines are the Icon range with the oldest member Blackbutt 2005 (cabernet, franc, merlot, malbec), Jarrah Shiraz 2005 (old vine) and more recently, Wandoo 2004, a carefully matured semillon. Other Black Labels include Chardonnay 2009, Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 and Shiraz Viognier 2008.
CULLEN
Cullen was established by Di and Kevin Cullen, absolute long stalwarts of the Margaret River growing region for decades, and until their demise. The property, established in 1971 now covers 28 hectares. Since their Mangan vineyard of 20 hectares was planted in 1994. If I were to name a trio of illustrious Australian cabernets then Cullen would have to be one of them every year. In fact the wine requiring these laudatory remarks is the Diana Madeline Cabernet Merlot, 2008 being the current release, and quite an easy drink-all the tannin is supple. I am in awe of its low alcohol status attributed to biodynamic viticulture by the current owner and winemaker, Vanya Cullen.
MOSS WOOD
This unirrigated vineyard of twelve hectares was established by medical identity and pinotphile Bill Pannell in 1970 then subsequently purchased by his winemaker Keith Mugford and wife Clare in 1984. Since that time Keith has expanded by purchasing the nearby seven hectare Ribbonvale vineyard in the same sub-region, Wilyabrup, planted in 1977. Among two illustrious cabernets in this country, alongside Cullen, is Moss Wood. The current wine is Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, the fully spicy, not herbal type of cabernet which rarely emerges from this famous vineyard. This wine style has great lineage, and many vintages are occasionally retasted to reconfirm their aging capability and authority in the glass, back to 1973.
LEEUWIN ESTATE
Leeuwin is an original vineyard planted in 1974 with the early vine pioneer rush by banker Denis Horgan who has continued to run it to this day with his very capable wife Trish pushing the boundaries in the entertainment arena. When one thinks about Leeuwin Estate for more than a second the next thought ought to be: Australia’s most famous chardonnay in many international tastings, and made continuously since 1980. The current Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay 2007 is a screamer, though a touch conservative alongside some of the other Margaret River makers pushing the style envelope now, and succeeding handsomely. Leeuwin’s other Art Series wines in the past have stood in the shadow of the chardonnay but serious work in the vineyard has addressed that over the past five years. Try Art Series Riesling 2009, Shiraz 2008 or an older Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 which has refinement.
VOYAGER ESTATE
Voyager Estate is the family business established by mining magnate Michael Wright in 1991 from a vineyard established by Peter Gherardi in 1978 and substantially expanded to 300 hectares. Business is now under the capable direction of daughter Alex Wright. The Cape Dutch cellar door and winery stand out as a feature of the area. A closer look at the wine labelling rapidly establishes the property’s historical connection with the Dutch East India Company and all things of a trading significance from that era. The varietal wines are outstanding: try Margaret River Chardonnay 2008, Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2009, Shiraz 2008, Girt by the Sea Cabernet Merlot 2008 or the slightly more serious Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2005.
Peter Scudamore-Smith is founder and director of the consulting firm Uncorked and Cultivated in Eastern Australia. He is a wine professional writing Masterclass for Grapegrowers and Vignerons and Smart Farmer. He has held posts writing weekly for the Brisbane Sunday Mail, monthly and bi-monthly for Winestate and Vogue, and in the 1980s, Wine Spectator. He is Australia’s second Master of Wine – Institute of Masters of Wine (UK), 1991. He is also, of course, AsianCorrespondent.com’s resident wine critic. You can read more of his writings here.
