It’s a mad, mad, mad, mad world outside – and surprisingly peaceful inside.
Surrounded by a madcap traditional market full of locals, Dongmyo (동묘, 東廟) sits as an acknowledgement to Korea’s historical connection to China. The historical tale, however, explains why this place doesn’t get as much attention.
Formerly known as Dongwangmyo, Dongmyo is designated National Treasure #142 by the Korean government. It’s dedicated to Guan Yu, a 3rd century Chinese general, and was constructed after the Japanese invasion of Korea in 1592. During the Japanese invasion, the Chinese Ming army came to Joseon’s aid; post-invasion, the Ming demanded three shrines be built to honor the spirit of Guan Yu. As Korea was still recovering from the war (and reliant on its ‘elder brother’ type of relationship with China), it wasn’t in a position to refuse. The Ming Emperor, Shen-tsung, put forth the money for the shrine, and provided a calligraphic plaque himself. Since its completion in 1601, it remains one of the oldest wooden buildings still standing in Seoul. The other two shrines (Seomyo and Bungmyo) were in the west and north, respectively, but only Dongmyo remains to this day.
The stone shrine – while locked, there’s just enough room between the wooden slats to see through. Unlike the better-funded tourist attractions, there’s no translation or transcription of the statue into English or Korean. Only a single glass stand details the historical sketch of how the shrine came to be.
The main shrine – as with others, it’s closed to the public. There are four painted statues inside the building, along with Guan Yu’s own statue.
I’m told there are more Chinese elements involved with this particular shrine – frankly speaking, however, I couldn’t tell you what they look like. The three brick walls around the shrine force you to enter through the ‘back’, relative to the main road. Still, it’s an intriguing place to visit, somewhat removed from the tourist trail, though still easy to find.
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Directions: take the Seoul subway system to Dongmyo station (line 1 or 6). Take exit 3 to street level and be prepared for the onslaught on Korean sellers. There’s plenty of merchandise around, if you’re up for seeing what they have to sell. Otherwise, take the first right and follow the shrine’s brick walls around to the left. The entrance is to the left.
Admission: free.
Hours: open during daylight (no specific hours are posted)
Address: 서울특별시 종로구 숭인동 238-1 (Seoul city, Jongno-gu, Sungin-dong 238-1)
Phone number: 02-731-0359
